Dubai is not a city. It is at least two, separated by a creek and several centuries, and today you move through both.
The morning belongs to an old Dubai. The historic district, where former Emirati merchant homes with their distinctive wind towers have been preserved as cultural spaces and museums, offers a glimpse of the city before the skyline existed. A crossing of the Dubai Creek by traditional wooden abra brings you to the other bank, where the gold and spice souks have been trading in the same lanes for generations. The smells, the light, the noise, a city within a city that has barely changed in essentials.
The afternoon pivots me completely. Downtown Dubai, the world's tallest building rising from the desert floor, its observation deck gives you a view over a city that barely existed fifty years ago. The timing matters here. Arriving at the observation deck as the sun begins to drop, you watch Dubai light up from above, the creek and the old city on one side, the new towers and the coastline on the other. The fountain show below begins as the last light leaves the sky.
Dinner at a rooftop restaurant overlooking the illuminated Downtown; the city spread out in every direction below.